The Black Hair Care Tragicomedy By James Clingman Jr.
The saddest part about this issue is the fact that we could see this one coming. Now that it has hit its mark, right between our eyes, maybe the pain will be severe enough not only to get our attention but also to hold our attention long enough for us to rally our forces and fight back. The Black Hair Care Industry (BHCI) has, once again, become a hot topic among folks other than Koreans.
Now that an investigative documentary has been produced about the industry, obviously shocking Black people once again, maybe some of us will resolve to do something to reclaim at least a portion of that vertical market. After all, the last time I checked, no one is using Black hair care products except Black folks.
The documentary discloses information, none of which was news to BHCI insiders, about the ownership of stores and distribution of hair products sought and bought by Black people. The main point of the report centered on the fact that Koreans own and control, and I do mean control, the overwhelming majority of the distribution and sale of Black hair care products, which includes shampoos, conditioners, oils and creams, and those fashionable hairpieces our sisters love to wear.
Some Black folks have seen this coming since the 1980's, especially if in light of the infamous but prophetic comments by then Revlon executive, Irving Bottner, and the subsequent "funeral" and boycott of Revlon Products headed by Jesse Jackson. Man, where is Jesse now? We sure could use another funeral.
Nevertheless, as we looked on, and in some cases collaborated in the demise of Black control of an industry that brags about Madame Walker, Annie Turnbo-Malone, Anthony Overton, S.B. Fuller, and many other Black hair care pioneers, the Koreans have used the past 20 years or so build their businesses and create wealth for their families. Oh yeah, we still get to look good, and we are quite willing to pay for it, but is looking good better than "doing good" - for yourself?
The three questions again come to mind: What? So what? Now what? At this stage, since we have ignored the "so what?" stage, we must deal with the "now what?" What are Black people going to do, if anything, about this situation? On the video, there are calls for boycotts, which could be done simply by buying your products at Black owned stores that get their products through Black owned channels of distribution. Oops, I almost forgot; we don't have very many of those, do we?
parBut, we do have some, so let's start there. We also have a relatively new organization, called BOBSA, the Black Owned Beauty Supply Association (see bobsa.org or call 650 488 4645). Every venture begins with a first step, so our "now what?" step must be taken from where we are, with what we have, and with whoever will go. If Black people are serious about slowing down the Korean Black Hair Care Express and revving up an economic engine of our own in this industry, we had better get busy buying from one another, expanding the Black channels of distribution we already have, creating investment pools to build warehouses and wholesale facilities, and all the other things it take to become "players" once again.
BOBSA is advocating for those changes and more, but it needs help from you, the consumer, on two fronts. BOBSA needs you to become a working member and supporter, and it needs you to commit to redirecting your spending. In addition, if you are serious, you should locate every Black hair care products store in your area and ask the owners to support BOBSA by becoming members. From that effort a nationwide database can be developed and posted on BOBSA's website, and no matter where you are in the country, you can find a Black owned store from which to purchase your products.
Now these suggestions are not coming from an expert in the industry; there are folks who know much more about this than I. Call upon them and get their ideas; use them as consultants to help recapture a portion YOUR market. Do everything it takes to hold on to what is probably the last vestige of an industry developed and maintained by Black people.
It is, quite frankly, shameful, as I think of the great brothers and sisters I teach about in my Black Entrepreneurship class, that we have allowed this to happen. Nothing against the Koreans for taking care of their business and beating us out of our own game, but are they really that much smarter than we are? Are they more capable of running this business than we are? Are they that much better at marketing to our people than we? Oh, it's about the money isn't it? It always is. Do they have more money than we? Or, is it that they use their money collectively to help their group a lot more than we do?
Now we're getting to meat of this issue, right? We can come up with all the excuses and reasons for being behind in a race that only Black people ran in for years, but we cannot truthfully say that we are consciously disturbed enough, collective enough in our thinking, and willing to make the sacrifices necessary to do what other groups do to build their wealth. Watch the video and you will see how it's done, just in case you have forgotten.
I end with this challenge. Make a commitment and then follow through on that commitment to purchase Black manufactured hair care products from Black owned outlets. Let's write a happy ending to this tragicomedy. One more thought: Don't envy the hair that Brandy wears; buy your own, from your own. t 2....
Seven Myths About Highly-Textured, Natural Hair The Truth about Natural Curly, Coily, Kinky Hair
Let us begin with a few basics about natural, aka Napptural, hair. Natural hair is hair that has not had its physical properties altered by chemical processes, including, but not limited to hair relaxers, texturizers, silkeners and jherri curls.
These products alter the natural texture of the hair by breaking down disulfide bonds, which hold together the keratins (proteins) in hair. We won't discuss the ins and outs of permanent chemical processes, rather this article will discuss natural hair and the myths associated with it.
Natural hair comes in many textures. Some natural hair is very tightly coiled; some is more loosely coiled or curled. Some textures have no curl pattern and no definition. Some textures have very visible definition. One head of natural hair alone can have more than one texture. These are all things to consider when talking about natural hair because actual textures vary just as much as the faces that proudly smile beneath it.
MYTH #1: Natural hair is hard to manage. This myth probably really is number one. There is a huge misconception that naturally curly or coily hair is hard to manage. Simply, it is not. What many people do not understand is that highly-textured hair is very unique, even from looser, naturally curly textures. Any type of hair is hard to manage if it is being 'managed' in such a way that works against its natural texture. Those who embrace the natural texture of their hair often wear styles that compliment that texture, and are not trying to force their hair to do something it will not naturally do. Extreme manipulation of the hair is stressful not only to the hair, but also to the person who is doing the manipulation. Not understanding the natural hair texture is one of the main reasons many people return to relaxers.
MYTH #2: Natural hair is rough and tough. Natural hair, contrary to obviously popular belief, is neither rough nor tough. Upon looking at a head of luscious nappturalness, some believe that it is rough to the touch. However, actually touching the hair (which is not recommended without consent) may reveal something entirely different. Most, in fact all, natural hair is very soft if properly moisturized and conditioned. African-American hair tends to be dry, but a good moisturizing and conditioning routine will keep the hair moist and soft. Any texture of hair that is denied proper moisture will be dry. Because natural hair is very full and thick, people often assume that it is super strong and tough. This is false. Each and every little bend in the shaft of the hair is a potential breaking point. When handling natural hair, you must be sure to be gentle because it is very delicate. In an Essence magazine article, Rodney Barnett, a trichologist, states, "'Think of your hair as a delicate piece of thread, not as a rope that can be knotted and twisted (30-Day Hair Repair).'"
MYTH #3: Natural hair is trendy. No doubt many people choose to be natural for a myriad of reasons, including to be stylish or trendy. But in no way should anyone believe that the only reason to be natural is to be trendy or hip. For those of us who have made the decision not to conform to European standards of beauty, this natural is far from a trend. Many naturals have made a very conscientious resolution to love who they are entirely. Giving up caustic and carcinogenic relaxers is, surprisingly, not something that is favored amongst the African-American community. Enduring comments of disgust and disapproval are oftentimes an accepted part of being natural, and there is nothing trendy about that.
MYTH #4: Natural hair grows slowly and does not get long. This is one of my favorites because it allows me to explain the wonder of highly-textured hair. Natural hair neither grows more slowly nor more quickly than relaxed hair. What naturals must take into account is what is known as shrinkage. Like a telephone cord, natural hair coils up tightly, more or less, thus increasing the surface area within a given length of hair. For example, six inches of relaxed hair is six inches, period. Six inches of tightly coiled hair could be up to twelve inches long when stretched. Natural hair, because of its density and volume, tends to grow big or out, as opposed to lengthy or down, depending on the actual texture of the hair. It is also a myth that the only way natural hair can be long is by locking the hair or wearing twists. This is very untrue.
MYTH #5: Most naturals wear twists and these twists are unattractive because they show the parts in the scalp. Wrong answer. As with all freshly twisted or braided hair, the parts show the scalp. The beauty and magic of natural hair is that, within a day or even a few hours, the hair swells and gets a little fuzzy, creating a very beautiful and unique style. The only way for relaxed heads to achieve this look is with synthetic kinky twists. Another beautiful thing about twisting or braiding natural hair is that no product is needed. Using relaxed and synthetic hair, the hair must be spritzed with holding spray or burned at the ends to keep it from unraveling. Although companies manufacture loc and twist gels, many nappturals opt out of using any product other than water to twist or braid the hair. The natural coiliness of the hair keeps the hair from completely unraveling, and the style can last for days or even weeks. Twists are only one of many styles that showcase the versatility of napptural hair.
MYTH #6: Natural hair is not accepted in the work place. While there have been instances of discrimination against those who choose to wear their natural hair, there are more examples of women who are working in all kinds of positions with their naturals. There are doctors, teachers, cashiers, social workers, writers, lawyers, artists, etc. who are proudly wearing their hair and bringing home checks. This is a completely bogus reason for thinking natural hair is unacceptable. Discrimination against natural hair is wrong and should not be tolerated.
MYTH #7 Natural hair makes one an exhibit or a spectacle of some sort; your intelligence will be overlooked. False and false. If anything, natural hair entails a sense of self-awareness. Naturals are not societal anomalies. While a person may choose to express herself through her hair, no one should feel that natural hair will make her an exhibit. Any natural would find this belief to be highly offensive, not to mention downright incorrect.
The Black Hair Care Tragicomedy
ReplyDeleteBy James Clingman Jr.
The saddest part about this issue is the fact that we could see this one coming. Now that it has hit its mark, right between our eyes, maybe the pain will be severe enough not only to get our attention but also to hold our attention long enough for us to rally our forces and fight back. The Black Hair Care Industry (BHCI) has, once again, become a hot topic among folks other than Koreans.
Now that an investigative documentary has been produced about the industry, obviously shocking Black people once again, maybe some of us will resolve to do something to reclaim at least a portion of that vertical market. After all, the last time I checked, no one is using Black hair care products except Black folks.
The documentary discloses information, none of which was news to BHCI insiders, about the ownership of stores and distribution of hair products sought and bought by Black people. The main point of the report centered on the fact that Koreans own and control, and I do mean control, the overwhelming majority of the distribution and sale of Black hair care products, which includes shampoos, conditioners, oils and creams, and those fashionable hairpieces our sisters love to wear.
Some Black folks have seen this coming since the 1980's, especially if in light of the infamous but prophetic comments by then Revlon executive, Irving Bottner, and the subsequent "funeral" and boycott of Revlon Products headed by Jesse Jackson. Man, where is Jesse now? We sure could use another funeral.
Nevertheless, as we looked on, and in some cases collaborated in the demise of Black control of an industry that brags about Madame Walker, Annie Turnbo-Malone, Anthony Overton, S.B. Fuller, and many other Black hair care pioneers, the Koreans have used the past 20 years or so build their businesses and create wealth for their families. Oh yeah, we still get to look good, and we are quite willing to pay for it, but is looking good better than "doing good" - for yourself?
The three questions again come to mind: What? So what? Now what? At this stage, since we have ignored the "so what?" stage, we must deal with the "now what?" What are Black people going to do, if anything, about this situation? On the video, there are calls for boycotts, which could be done simply by buying your products at Black owned stores that get their products through Black owned channels of distribution. Oops, I almost forgot; we don't have very many of those, do we?
parBut, we do have some, so let's start there. We also have a relatively new organization, called BOBSA, the Black Owned Beauty Supply Association (see bobsa.org or call 650 488 4645). Every venture begins with a first step, so our "now what?" step must be taken from where we are, with what we have, and with whoever will go. If Black people are serious about slowing down the Korean Black Hair Care Express and revving up an economic engine of our own in this industry, we had better get busy buying from one another, expanding the Black channels of distribution we already have, creating investment pools to build warehouses and wholesale facilities, and all the other things it take to become "players" once again.
ReplyDeleteBOBSA is advocating for those changes and more, but it needs help from you, the consumer, on two fronts. BOBSA needs you to become a working member and supporter, and it needs you to commit to redirecting your spending. In addition, if you are serious, you should locate every Black hair care products store in your area and ask the owners to support BOBSA by becoming members. From that effort a nationwide database can be developed and posted on BOBSA's website, and no matter where you are in the country, you can find a Black owned store from which to purchase your products.
Now these suggestions are not coming from an expert in the industry; there are folks who know much more about this than I. Call upon them and get their ideas; use them as consultants to help recapture a portion YOUR market. Do everything it takes to hold on to what is probably the last vestige of an industry developed and maintained by Black people.
It is, quite frankly, shameful, as I think of the great brothers and sisters I teach about in my Black Entrepreneurship class, that we have allowed this to happen. Nothing against the Koreans for taking care of their business and beating us out of our own game, but are they really that much smarter than we are? Are they more capable of running this business than we are? Are they that much better at marketing to our people than we? Oh, it's about the money isn't it? It always is. Do they have more money than we? Or, is it that they use their money collectively to help their group a lot more than we do?
Now we're getting to meat of this issue, right? We can come up with all the excuses and reasons for being behind in a race that only Black people ran in for years, but we cannot truthfully say that we are consciously disturbed enough, collective enough in our thinking, and willing to make the sacrifices necessary to do what other groups do to build their wealth. Watch the video and you will see how it's done, just in case you have forgotten.
I end with this challenge. Make a commitment and then follow through on that commitment to purchase Black manufactured hair care products from Black owned outlets. Let's write a happy ending to this tragicomedy. One more thought: Don't envy the hair that Brandy wears; buy your own, from your own.
t 2....
Natural Hair
ReplyDeleteSeven Myths About Highly-Textured, Natural Hair
The Truth about Natural Curly, Coily, Kinky Hair
Let us begin with a few basics about natural, aka Napptural, hair. Natural hair is hair that has not had its physical properties altered by chemical processes, including, but not limited to hair relaxers, texturizers, silkeners and jherri curls.
These products alter the natural texture of the hair by breaking down disulfide bonds, which hold together the keratins (proteins) in hair. We won't discuss the ins and outs of permanent chemical processes, rather this article will discuss natural hair and the myths associated with it.
Natural hair comes in many textures. Some natural hair is very tightly coiled; some is more loosely coiled or curled. Some textures have no curl pattern and no definition. Some textures have very visible definition. One head of natural hair alone can have more than one texture. These are all things to consider when talking about natural hair because actual textures vary just as much as the faces that proudly smile beneath it.
MYTH #1: Natural hair is hard to manage.
This myth probably really is number one. There is a huge misconception that naturally curly or coily hair is hard to manage. Simply, it is not. What many people do not understand is that highly-textured hair is very unique, even from looser, naturally curly textures. Any type of hair is hard to manage if it is being 'managed' in such a way that works against its natural texture. Those who embrace the natural texture of their hair often wear styles that compliment that texture, and are not trying to force their hair to do something it will not naturally do. Extreme manipulation of the hair is stressful not only to the hair, but also to the person who is doing the manipulation. Not understanding the natural hair texture is one of the main reasons many people return to relaxers.
MYTH #2: Natural hair is rough and tough.
Natural hair, contrary to obviously popular belief, is neither rough nor tough. Upon looking at a head of luscious nappturalness, some believe that it is rough to the touch. However, actually touching the hair (which is not recommended without consent) may reveal something entirely different. Most, in fact all, natural hair is very soft if properly moisturized and conditioned. African-American hair tends to be dry, but a good moisturizing and conditioning routine will keep the hair moist and soft. Any texture of hair that is denied proper moisture will be dry. Because natural hair is very full and thick, people often assume that it is super strong and tough. This is false. Each and every little bend in the shaft of the hair is a potential breaking point. When handling natural hair, you must be sure to be gentle because it is very delicate. In an Essence magazine article, Rodney Barnett, a trichologist, states, "'Think of your hair as a delicate piece of thread, not as a rope that can be knotted and twisted (30-Day Hair Repair).'"
part 2...
ReplyDeleteMYTH #3: Natural hair is trendy.
No doubt many people choose to be natural for a myriad of reasons, including to be stylish or trendy. But in no way should anyone believe that the only reason to be natural is to be trendy or hip. For those of us who have made the decision not to conform to European standards of beauty, this natural is far from a trend. Many naturals have made a very conscientious resolution to love who they are entirely. Giving up caustic and carcinogenic relaxers is, surprisingly, not something that is favored amongst the African-American community. Enduring comments of disgust and disapproval are oftentimes an accepted part of being natural, and there is nothing trendy about that.
MYTH #4: Natural hair grows slowly and does not get long.
This is one of my favorites because it allows me to explain the wonder of highly-textured hair. Natural hair neither grows more slowly nor more quickly than relaxed hair. What naturals must take into account is what is known as shrinkage. Like a telephone cord, natural hair coils up tightly, more or less, thus increasing the surface area within a given length of hair. For example, six inches of relaxed hair is six inches, period. Six inches of tightly coiled hair could be up to twelve inches long when stretched. Natural hair, because of its density and volume, tends to grow big or out, as opposed to lengthy or down, depending on the actual texture of the hair. It is also a myth that the only way natural hair can be long is by locking the hair or wearing twists. This is very untrue.
MYTH #5: Most naturals wear twists and these twists are unattractive because they show the parts in the scalp.
Wrong answer. As with all freshly twisted or braided hair, the parts show the scalp. The beauty and magic of natural hair is that, within a day or even a few hours, the hair swells and gets a little fuzzy, creating a very beautiful and unique style. The only way for relaxed heads to achieve this look is with synthetic kinky twists. Another beautiful thing about twisting or braiding natural hair is that no product is needed. Using relaxed and synthetic hair, the hair must be spritzed with holding spray or burned at the ends to keep it from unraveling. Although companies manufacture loc and twist gels, many nappturals opt out of using any product other than water to twist or braid the hair. The natural coiliness of the hair keeps the hair from completely unraveling, and the style can last for days or even weeks. Twists are only one of many styles that showcase the versatility of napptural hair.
MYTH #6: Natural hair is not accepted in the work place.
While there have been instances of discrimination against those who choose to wear their natural hair, there are more examples of women who are working in all kinds of positions with their naturals. There are doctors, teachers, cashiers, social workers, writers, lawyers, artists, etc. who are proudly wearing their hair and bringing home checks. This is a completely bogus reason for thinking natural hair is unacceptable. Discrimination against natural hair is wrong and should not be tolerated.
MYTH #7 Natural hair makes one an exhibit or a spectacle of some sort; your intelligence will be overlooked.
False and false. If anything, natural hair entails a sense of self-awareness. Naturals are not societal anomalies. While a person may choose to express herself through her hair, no one should feel that natural hair will make her an exhibit. Any natural would find this belief to be highly offensive, not to mention downright incorrect.
Now, why, again, are you still relaxing?